Itinerary and Log/Journal

Got the train all right, but there was no buffet, and we arrived in Harwich starved and parched.

Brilliant weather - warm & sunny - and a smooth sea. The boat ("Prince of Scandinavia") was nice, but the couchette was pretty basic, although we do at least have it to ourselves.

Woke-up at 6am - the cabin was hot and VERY stuffy, so we both decided to get-up and go out on deck for some fresh air. The sea was still calm, but it is overcast and drizzling. We go in search of coffee, but the first bar doesn't open until 7am, so we have to make do with coke from a drinks machine. In fact, we had to wait till 8am before we could get any coffee - Dave is not best pleased about this!

For a major port Hamburg is actually a long way inland. It takes the ship nearly 5 hours to sail up the Elbe from the North Sea. Arrived at Hamburg 1/2 hour ahead of schedule, but Andrew's bag broke just as we were getting off the boat, and we had to go shopping to buy a new one.

Spent a pleasant afternoon wandering around the old warehouses in the Speicherstadt district of the Free Port area, and admiring the truly stunning Chile Haus. The hotel was opposite the main railway station, but also close to the St Georg red-light district. This turned-out to be one of the most unpleasant places we visited on our trip, but we eventually found a nice cafe in a rather more salubrious district where we had a quiet drink and Andrew finally began to come to terms with the fact that he was actually on holiday!

Hamburg warm & sunny - Denmark even hotter. Still 27°C at midnight!

After a peasant drink at a pavement cafe, we caught the "Northern Arrow" train as planned. Highlights of the journey included the impressive railway bridge over the Kiel Canal, and the very attractive Jutland coastline.

Spent the evening chatting with our host Frank.

Very Hot (28°C). In the morning we walked down to the clifftop woodlands to the north of the port. Then along the side of the railway to the centre of Århus for lunch. After exploring the town centre (including the the cathedral and the rather interesting Viking Museum in the basement of a bank), we visited the reconstructed old town ("Den Gamle By"). The day was rounded-off with a very pleasant evening down by the beach and around the port, where we saw the Danish Royal Yacht.

We like Denmark!
Thanks to Frank for being a great host, and for letting us use his computer to update these pages.

We were planning to get an earlier train, but this was the only one we could get reservations for (Tip for Travellers: this service is VERY busy, you need to book at least 2 days in advance).

We had expected this journey to include a ferry between Funen and Zealand, so were rather surprised when we found out that the train would be using the newly completed Store Bælt (Great Belt) fixed link. Before diving into the mid-channel tunnel we got an excellent view of the almost complete East Bridge (which will carry the motorway over the widest section of the link) - the longest suspension bridge in the World.

On arriving in Copenhagen we are greeted by two elephants walking down the road. Our hotel is right in the centre of the city, close to the main square, shopping streets, and the Tivoli. Copenhagen is full of bicycles, but also seems to be full of deaf people too. Everywhere we go there are people using sign language, and it is only after spotting a t-shirt that we realise that this is because the World Games for the Deaf are currently taking place here.

Spend the evening exploring the city centre.

Spend most of the day wandering around the city. Our attempt to visit the Little Mermaid statue is thwarted by a sudden, and very heavy thunderstorm. After deciding that huddling under a tree is not a terribly successful strategy we have to take refuge in a nearby gents toilet for almost an hour (yuk). After returning to the hotel to get dry and warm, the good weather returns, but we spurn the Little Mermaid in favour of the Tycho Brahe Planetarium, and a walk around the harbour, quayside, and Amelienborg Palace.

In the evening we have one of the best (and most expensive) meals of the trip, and then go for a stroll in the Tivoli Gardens.

Roskilde is a lovely town 30km west of Copenhagen at the end of a long shallow fjord. It has a bustling town square, imposing cathedral and a number of ancient springs and wells dotted around the town. It is a very relaxing place with an "open", almost village-like feel about it. We visited the excellent Viking Ship Museum (our kind of museum - it only has 5 exhibits!) and historic boatyard, although decided not to take a trip in one of the replica longships (it looked like too much hard work!).

Got the noon Flygbåtarna catamaran - the "Løberen" - from Copenhagen (Havngade) across the Öresund to Malmö in Sweden. The crossing took just 45 minutes, and the sea was calm.
(Tip for Travellers: our tickets cost us just DKK33 each (about £3), when the lowest advertised price appeared to be DKK70 for InterRail ticket holders - it seems that if you travel on certain days/times you can get quite a big discount.)

On arriving in Malmö it promptly started to rain, so we took refuge in the railway station (which is just across the road from the ferry terminal)

The rain got much worse, and since we didn't much fancy the idea of spending the 8 hours 'till our Berlin connection in Malmö Central Station we decided to go on a little train journey. We took the first available Swedish Railways X2000 (high speed) train as far as possible allowing us enough time to get back to Malmö for our next train. This meant the we ended-up going to a place called Alvesta, which we couldn't find on the map, but appeared to be about 180km inland. The scenery on the way was quite impressive: hilly boulder-strewn forests (mixed), interspersed with large shallow lakes and marshes. This is the area of Sweden known as Småland. We didn't see much of Alvesta itself, since it was raining again by the time we got there, so we spent an hour in the station before getting the next train back to Malmö.

It had stopped raining by the time we got back, so we had a wander around the city .

The "Sassnitz Express" turned-out to be a rail-replacement bus as far as Trelleborg. This freaked us (and some of the other passengers) a bit at first, but the bus journey was only 35 minutes, and the train was waiting for us on the quayside at Trelleborg. The train was then shunted onto the ferry (Hansa Line's M/S Trelleborg) - a novel experience - and we set sail across the Baltic, helped by Trelleborg's impressive laser guidance system.

David can't tell you much about the journey as after we'd done some duty free shopping (David's gold card causing problems probably from overuse in Denmark!) and played pinball on the ferry (the movement of the ship makes an interesting challenge!) he went straight to sleep. Andrew on the other hand could not get to grips with sleeping in a bunk in a cabin on a train on a boat, and got to see quite a bit of the Baltic, and our arrival in Sassnitz, even if in the dark!

6:30am, and after a much-needed coffee at Lichtenberg station, we set off on the S-Bahn across the city to Charlottenburg. Berlin is a fabulous city but at that point neither of us were in an appreciative frame of mind. Fortunately the Hotel Charlottenburger Hof was opposite the station and our room was ready. After a late breakfast in Cafe Voltaire which is part of the hotel building itself and good value, we went exploring the city. (tip for travellers: do NOT attempt to buy tourist travel tickets at Charlottenburg station unless your German is perfect).

Berlin is one huge building site at the moment. But if you have any interest in urban development then it makes a fascinating city to visit. After strolling along Unten den Linden, to the Brandenburg Tor, and the Reichstag building we went to the Infobox where the plans for the city are on display (bit of a busman's holiday for Andrew!). David tried some of Berlin's nightlife on his own but that's all he's prepared to admit to.

A trip to the Pergamon. Words and photos cannot do justice to the Pergamon altar which is the museum's main exhibit. (but we've included a pic anyway!) The other major exhibit is the Ishtar gate and processional way from Babylon, which is also stunning. Explore more of the former East Berlin, and the Alexanderplatz.

Clubbing 'til 4am completes a day of contrasts.

Whilst we were in the city there was a major exhibition on "The Franks". This tribe was being described as the first Europeans. At some stage we'll add a page with links to sites covering the various historical figures and events which were important during the holiday.

Having spent a couple of hours in the dark Ages, then a couple of hours shopping, in the evening we ascend 207.3m in the Fernsehturm (TV Tower for monoglots). After dark is definitely the best time to appreciate the view of the city. The city's obviously trying to milk this building as a tourist attraction and if you go you should now that there is a a lot of tat on the ground floor which can and should be simply walked past.

Another night of clubbing , but then Berlin's made for that. For our club recommendations you're going to have to ask us in person!

After a late start (the only problem with clubbing til the early hours), we take a train out to Potsdam. The main reason for going here is to see the palace of Sans Souci. This is a UNESCO world heritage site, and well worth the visit. Potsdam was formerly in the GDR and visiting Potsdam has only become practical since the fall of the Wall in 1989

As this was our last night in Berlin and we had (for us) an early start in the morning we eschewed the nightlife that night. However we are pleased to play Egon Ronay and recommend a restaurant. In Gervinusstr just behind Charlottenburg station is a place called TriaLaRit. We cannot recommend this place too highly and if you go on a Thursday you can even have a tango lesson! We had come across this restaurant while walking back to the hotel on Tuesday and had been so pleased with the food and service that we decided to go for another meal here on our last night in Berlin. The restaurant offers both tapas and large dishes and we have no hesitation in our recommendation for dessert pancake with 'crema de leche'. Just make sure you don't eat too much before you order it (or that you have someone to share it with!)

OK we know we said an early start but having to leave the hotel by 11am was early for us. The train from Berlin to Prague meanders through the former GDR, and had we had more time we would have checked out Dresden. After Dresden the rail maps show the line as scenic. We can confirm this. We were having lunch (excellent omelettes and cheap beer!) in the restaurant car while the train sped along the Elbe river gorge. (if you've been paying attention to this travelogue or if you have a reasonable knowledge of geography you'll realise that we've now seen the the Elbe from two modes of transport). Rail travel in Europe has many advantages over flying, better food and excellent views are just two of them.

Travelling further inland, the Elbe becomes the Labe, and finally the Vltava - the great Czech river that runs through Prague. Andrew starts to get very excited that we are about to arrive in the city that he has dreamed of visiting for so long (and is that the music of Smetana that we can hear in the distance...!)

Part of our reasoning for taking the "Porta Bohemica" train was that, instead of terminating at Praha - Holesovice which is where the majority of international trains stop, this one went on to Praha hlavni nadrazi ("central station") which was the closest station to our hotel (trying to explain this to the woman at Berlin Zoo station when we were reserving the seats with David's limited German was amusing but eventually successful). The station when we arrived (½ an hour late) was full of soldiers going home for the weekend (apparently Prague has a barracks within the city). After some difficulty we manage to acquire tram tickets, and make our way to the hotel.

After a meal which made us think that the Czechs have obviously improved things since most of the guide books were written, we wander through the old town and down to the Charles Bridge and have our first view of Prague Castle. If you're thinking of visiting Prague then we recommend that your first view of the castle should be from the bridge after dark. [Click here to see why]

Got-up early (ish) and made our way down to the city centre. After a (not very inspiring) coffee at a sidewalk cafe off of Wenceslass Sqaure, we finally managed to get some proper 3-day travel passes (these had been impossible to purchase at the station the previous day). We celebrated this achievement by having another coffee, and some delicious cake, at the tea rooms in the fabulous "Municipal Building" (Obecni Dum). This immaculately restored late art nouveau building has to be seen to be believed, and we cannot recommend the tea rooms too highly - especially the cakes!

Wander around the Jewish quarter, but the famous cemetary is closed (it being a Saturday). So, armed with our new travel passes we go on an extended foot/tram trip around the city on both sides of the river, and eventually end-up back at the Old Town Square, where we visit an innovative exhibition - "Opus Magnum" - on alchemy, magic, and secret cults & societies (Dave being in his element here - if you'll pardon the pun). After beer and pancakes at a very good bar around the back of the Town Hall, and another tram ride down the East bank of the Vltava to see the notorious "Fred & Ginger" development, we finally end-up back at the Old Town Square just in time to see the famous clock do its thing (we had managed to just-miss this several times during the day).

That evening we had one of the nicest, and cheapest, meals of the whole trip. Traditional Czech food - 3 courses, 3 (0.5l) beers and 3 espressos each for just Kc720 a head (about £7 each). Afterwards we amble, replete and slightly heady, through the lanes and alleys of the Old Town. Prague is at its very best at night - the orangey glow from the street lamps, the ancient buildings, and the completely disorientating street layout, all combine to give an overwhelming sense of other/older worldliness. Or maybe we were just a bit pissed?

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

If you have to kill some time at Praha hlavni nadrazi station here's a game which could keep you occupied for hours. Find this

The sleeper to Munich was our next journey. We were pleased to have spent the money to get a sleeper as the train itself was very full and it wasn't even Oktoberfest! This time it was David's turn to see Germany at night while Andrew slept. For some reason the passport officials from the Czech Republic and Germany come round seperately, so if you are asleep you get woken twice at about 2am. The Czechs are much more polite than the Germans about it too!

As you can imagine if we think 11am is an early start 6.30 is still the middle of the night! But Munich Hbf is a nice station and coffee is easily available. Dave's mate Paul claims to live in Munich. He actually lives in Erding which is to Munich what High Wycombe is to London. So we spend 45mins on an S-Bahn.The coffee must have worked though because at one stage Dave realises that the train is going to split and we're in the wrong half!

When we arrive at Paul's we are faced with potentially the biggest problem of the holiday. The previous night Paul had managed to melt his coffee machine. (Don't ask how!) Days without access to coffee was unthinkable. So after some sleep and lunch in the town centre we take a wander into Erding's department store to buy a new coffee maker. Shopping when you only have a limited vocabulary is always an interesting experience!

That evening we drive into Munich proper and eat at the city's cybercafe. This place puts more emphasis on it's pizzas rather than it's... but surfing is included in the price of the food. As a result of a quick chat on IRC we arrange to meet a long-standing IRC chum - Eckie - in one of Munich's many bars.

We had planned to use today to travel to Innsbruck but unfortunately Andrew was very unwell and we just spent the day quietly.

Being that this was our last day in Munich we decided that so we could all enjoy the nightlife it would be a good idea to stay in a hotel in the centre of the city. Unfortunately all did not go to plan as the hotel we wanted to stay in was full and the tourist office had a long queue. So we take off for Garmisch anyway.

Outside the ski-ing season Garmisch's main claim to fame is the Zugspitze which is Germany's highest mountain and forms part of it's border with Austria. We were too late to go up it but anyway the summit was surrounded in cloud. So after waffles in the town we return to Munich. At Hbf there is the Hotel InterCity. As Andrew and I were leaving by train the following day it made sense to us that we stayed there so we could lie in the next day. Time for another restaurant recommendation.

From our experience, recommendations from the Rough Guides are usually reliable and the 'rough and ready Greek' listed for Munich is no exception. In the interests of honest reporting we feel it only proper to let you know we were not swayed in any way by the free ouzo from the owner.

As Dave needs to protect his reputation as an impoverished student we won't tell you how much the hotel cost. But if we say it's a 4 star hotel and champagne is offered as part of the breakfast buffet we think you'll get the idea.

It is possible to take a direct train from Munich to Cologne, but that at the time we were there that would have meant missing out on a ride on one of Deutsche Bahn's flagship ICE trains. For those of you used to the worst of British railways these trains are enough to make you weep. A top speed of 250km per hour (we're all meant to be Europeans now so if you want that in old money you'll have to work it out yourself) and DB (annoyingly) lives up to the stereotype of the Germans being efficient. We were slightly concerned about having only 5 minutes to make our connection at Mannheim. But our connection was waiting on the other track of the same platform. The train to Cologne meanders along the Rhine gorge so another lunch in a restaurant car while watching beautiful scenery.

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

Err - sorry, we (still) haven't written this one up yet.

[Well, Andrew got home safely. Dave arrived two weeks later having made a detour back to Denmark (luck sod).]